Drying rooms and cellars: how ham is cured

A controlled transformation

Salt begins preservation and water loss; resting distributes it; drying reduces moisture and ageing develops aroma and texture. The TSG specifies a minimum 210-day process and at least 33% weight loss relative to the fresh weight. [1]

The location matters, as do the producer’s controls: windows, temperature, humidity, moving the hams and observation.

Salting and resting

Weight, fat and shape influence salting. Afterwards, at low temperature, salt continues to diffuse inwards while water loss is controlled. [1]

The drying room

During drying-maturation, temperature rises gradually and relative humidity falls within controlled ranges. Some fat melts, a process known as sweating. [1]

Traditional drying rooms regulate seasonal air with windows; modern facilities control the environment. Both aim to avoid sudden changes and an exterior that dries too quickly.

Cellar and final ageing

Enzyme activity transforms proteins and fats and generates aromatic compounds. The master ham maker checks fat, touch, weight loss and aroma; a brief probe, known as cala, helps assess the scent.

Bodega is also a regulated label term for non-Iberian ham: the ageing location should not be confused with a labelling category. [2]

What the months tell you

Weight, fat cover and drying conditions change each ham’s pace. Read the months alongside origin, certification and producer. The legal production period excludes stages when biochemical reactions are interrupted. [2]

Even texture and a clean aroma are better signs than extreme dryness. A dry ham is not necessarily a well-cured ham.

Common questions